Sunday, December 31, 2017

Scuba Diving, Snorkeling, Skin Diving, Freediving: What’s the Difference?

For someone just discovering the world of underwater sports, there’s seemingly no end to the different disciplines. The most common are the ones in the headline: scuba diving, snorkeling, skin diving, and freediving. But what’s the difference between them?

While there are somewhat clear definitions, there’s also considerable overlap, so some might disagree with these definitions. They are slightly too simplistic by design to help newbies tell the different sports apart. And ultimately, opinions will differ. With that disclaimer, let’s give it a go: what’s the difference between scuba diving, snorkeling, skin diving and freediving?

Scuba Diving

This one is the easiest to define. Scuba is the abbreviation for “Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus,” which is an old term for the combination of a scuba tank and regulator. So, if you’re wearing a tank on your back and breathing through a mouthpiece connected to that tank, you’re scuba diving. You’ll wear a mask to help you see, fins to help with propulsion and a BCD to control buouancy. You’ll also usually wear some sort of exposure protection, such as a rash-guard in the tropics, a wetsuit in temperate climes, or a drysuit in cold water. Boots are often part of this exposure protection, and if so, your fins will have heel straps or bungees. Scuba diving involves specialized training and certification.

Snorkeling

Snorkeling is the most popular option on our list, and the one that you can enjoy with the least amount of experience. In snorkeling, you stay on the surface, looking down through a mask and breathing through a snorkel. You don’t have to lift your head to breathe. You may wear exposure protection, usually a rash-guard or wetsuit, but in some places you may even need a drysuit. Snorkeling fins are softer than scuba fins and, rather than using a heel strap, they’ll slip over your full foot without a boot. Some snorkelers also wear floatation vests, especially if they’re not particularly strong swimmers.

Freediving

Freediving is not a new sport per se, but it has seen a dramatic spike in popularity. Unlike the others on this list, freediving is largely a competitive sport. It consists of various disciplines, all centered around the same principle: staying underwater for as long as possible on a single breath. Disciplines range from static apnea, where you lie stationary, face-down in a pool, holding your breath for as long as you can to ones where you have to cover as much distance horizontally or vertically as you can. Freedivers wear masks that are often a blend between a dive mask and swim goggles, but do not use snorkels. You also wear exposure protection, usually wetsuits. You’ll rarely (if ever) see a freediver in a drysuit. Freedivers sometimes wear fins, although some disciplines don’t use them. They’re usually either very long, full-foot fins, or a monofin — a single, broad-bladed fin that you wear on both feet. This creates a profile similar to a fish tail. Freedivers focus on the diving, spending little time at the surface apart from surface intervals and recuperation time.

Skin diving

A somewhat antiquated term, skin diving refers to a mix of snorkeling and freediving. A skin diver spends time at the surface, looking down on the landscape below while breathing through a snorkel, and does breath-hold dives, swimming down to observe interesting objects or marine life. Many advanced snorkelers practice skin diving, as well as freedivers just diving for fun rather than competition or training. Skin divers wear masks, snorkels and sometimes wetsuits, depending on water temperature. Drysuits are not appropriate. Fins can be either snorkeling or freediving fins.

Again, the lines between each discipline — except scuba diving — can get blurry. Not everyone will necessarily agree with our distinctions but, at the very least, they might help a novice get an idea of what to expect.

The post Scuba Diving, Snorkeling, Skin Diving, Freediving: What’s the Difference? appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.



from Scuba Diver Life http://ift.tt/2DEpnzR

Scuba Diving, Snorkeling, Skin Diving, Freediving: What’s the Difference?

For someone just discovering the world of underwater sports, there's seemingly no end to the different disciplines. The most common are the ones in the headline: scuba diving, snorkeling, skin diving, and freediving. But what's the difference between them?

While there are somewhat clear definitions, there's also considerable overlap, so some might disagree with these definitions. They are slightly too simplistic by design to help newbies tell the different sports apart. And ultimately, opinions will differ. With that disclaimer, let's give it a go: what's the difference between scuba diving, snorkeling, skin diving and freediving?

Scuba Diving

This one is the easiest to define. Scuba is the abbreviation for "Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus," which is an old term for the combination of a scuba tank and regulator. So, if you're wearing a tank on your back and breathing through a mouthpiece connected to that tank, you're scuba diving. You'll wear a mask to help you see, fins to help with propulsion and a BCD to control buouancy. You'll also usually wear some sort of exposure protection, such as a rash-guard in the tropics, a wetsuit in temperate climes, or a drysuit in cold water. Boots are often part of this exposure protection, and if so, your fins will have heel straps or bungees. Scuba diving involves specialized training and certification.

Snorkeling

Snorkeling is the most popular option on our list, and the one that you can enjoy with the least amount of experience. In snorkeling, you stay on the surface, looking down through a mask and breathing through a snorkel. You don't have to lift your head to breathe. You may wear exposure protection, usually a rash-guard or wetsuit, but in some places you may even need a drysuit. Snorkeling fins are softer than scuba fins and, rather than using a heel strap, they'll slip over your full foot without a boot. Some snorkelers also wear floatation vests, especially if they're not particularly strong swimmers.

Freediving

Freediving is not a new sport per se, but it has seen a dramatic spike in popularity. Unlike the others on this list, freediving is largely a competitive sport. It consists of various disciplines, all centered around the same principle: staying underwater for as long as possible on a single breath. Disciplines range from static apnea, where you lie stationary, face-down in a pool, holding your breath for as long as you can to ones where you have to cover as much distance horizontally or vertically as you can. Freedivers wear masks that are often a blend between a dive mask and swim goggles, but do not use snorkels. You also wear exposure protection, usually wetsuits. You'll rarely (if ever) see a freediver in a drysuit. Freedivers sometimes wear fins, although some disciplines don't use them. They're usually either very long, full-foot fins, or a monofin — a single, broad-bladed fin that you wear on both feet. This creates a profile similar to a fish tail. Freedivers focus on the diving, spending little time at the surface apart from surface intervals and recuperation time.

Skin diving

A somewhat antiquated term, skin diving refers to a mix of snorkeling and freediving. A skin diver spends time at the surface, looking down on the landscape below while breathing through a snorkel, and does breath-hold dives, swimming down to observe interesting objects or marine life. Many advanced snorkelers practice skin diving, as well as freedivers just diving for fun rather than competition or training. Skin divers wear masks, snorkels and sometimes wetsuits, depending on water temperature. Drysuits are not appropriate. Fins can be either snorkeling or freediving fins.

Again, the lines between each discipline — except scuba diving — can get blurry. Not everyone will necessarily agree with our distinctions but, at the very least, they might help a novice get an idea of what to expect.

The post Scuba Diving, Snorkeling, Skin Diving, Freediving: What's the Difference? appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.



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Saturday, December 30, 2017

Training Fundamentals: The Dunning-Kruger Diver

 

Often, dive accidents and incidents are due to the Dunning-Kruger effect: diver error caused by the dissonance between the diver’s overconfidence in his own abilities and his actual abilities. What are common signs of a Dunning-Kruger diver, and how do you avoid becoming one?

Diving is a very safe sport, with quite a small number of serious injuries and fatalities.

However, according to a recent report by Divers Alert Network, a disproportionately large number of serious injuries and fatalities befell recreational divers on pleasure and sightseeing dives. In fact, 66 percent of fatalities in the 2016 report fall into this category. A considerably smaller proportion of incidents occur in training situations, when experts work within set training parameters. The overwhelming reason for diver accidents is diver error, as mentioned, and one of the key drivers may be the psychological phenomenon known as the Dunning-Kruger Effect.

The Psychology: Unskilled and unaware

Two Cornell University professors, David Dunning and Justin Kruger, first explained their findings in 1999. Their research indicated a cognitive bias in novices within widespread fields, from tennis to medicine, to chess. The bias presents in novices as a belief that they are much more competent than they really are. As Dunning put it, “If you’re incompetent, you can’t know you’re incompetent…The skills you need to produce a right answer are exactly the skills you need to recognize what a right answer is.”

These blind spots in cognition leave novices in any given field, including scuba diving, with difficulty recognizing their own shortcomings, and may lead to inflated self-assessments of skill and knowledge level.

Dunning-Kruger indicators in scuba diving

Scuba diving is a never-ending learning curve of evolving skills and new technology. Naturally, in those first few qualifying dives, there is much to learn. During the first 10 to 100 dives, there is often a rush of confidence in novice divers disproportionate to their competence. The curve of confidence and perceived competence (picture above) often peaks in that range. Then, after gaining some knowledge and after some self-reflection, the diver forms a more realistic assessment of their actual abilities and competence. The curve of the diver’s confidence drops away as they begin Rescue, Divemaster or technical-diver training and realizes the length of the road ahead.

Subsequently, confidence and competence grow together as a diver gains new skills and experiences over the longer term. Although note that even experts lack the supreme confidence of those at the early “peak,” as they have the wherewithal to understand that there is always more to learn.

Signs of a Dunning-Kruger diver

Divers in that initial 10 to 100 logged-dives range are often receptive to advice and open to learning new scuba skills, or receiving coaching. Those at the peak of the early confidence curve, however, often exhibit traits that can frustrate their buddies and dive center staff or, potentially, lead to hazardous behavior. Here are a few signs of a Dunning-Kruger diver: have you (or someone you know) ever exhibited any of these behaviors?

Ignoring equipment advice

Having the right equipment for your level of diving and environment is key. It would be unwise, for example, to take warm-water rated regulator into water. Local instructors, divemasters and dive center staff will often make recommendations based on your planned dives and experience level, whether that’s having a reel and SMB, using nitrox, or the suitability of your BCD, regulator, exposure suit or hood.

The Dunning-Kruger diver will often spurn the advice of divers more experienced or qualified in that diving activity or environment. For example, they may insist on taking gloves, a pointer or a shaker — despite a ban in the marine park or advice not to use them from a local guide. Alternatively, the diver may insist that they don’t need a hood or gloves in a tougher environment, finding themselves cold as the dive progresses to depth or exposing them to hazards on a wreck dive.

Solution: Listen to the advice of experienced local divers and staff. They know the waters, procedures and suitable equipment for the dives.

Ignoring training course advice

If you want to advance your diver training, who better to consult than your instructor? They know the training standards, curriculum, and requirements of the various training courses in detail. Especially if they’ve already completed some training with you, the instructor can give you honest and constructive feedback as to whether you’re a suitable candidate.

The Dunning-Kruger diver will often be wholeheartedly convinced they’re capable of being a divemaster, instructor or technical diver after their first training dives, despite knowing little of the training standards, curriculum, and responsibilities. Conversely, the diver may be offended if he receives delicate advice from an instructor that he should gain more experience before progressing. The Dunning-Kruger diver will often ignore this advice and push to sign up in the course with an alternate instructor.

Solution: While ambition and enthusiasm for further training are admirable qualities, take the advice you receive and learn to walk before you run if so advised. Taking your time can prevent needless risks to yourself and fellow divers in your group.

Spurning technique advice

Sometimes when supervising certified divers, instructors, divemasters and guides will offer advice and tips outside of the confines of a course. This can be on a liveaboard or during a guided boat or shore dive. It may be that, having observed the diver in the water, the professional offers advice on technique such as getting in/out of their equipment, buoyancy control, positioning, weighting, finning technique or even tips for diving motor skills such as deploying an SMB from depth more effectively.

The Dunning-Kruger diver will often rebuff, discard or discount advice from the professional diver. They may even, in some cases, attempt to rationalize their behavior or argue that they’re correct and the professional is wrong. For example, a diver with volatile buoyancy may be convinced the equipment is at fault rather than accept advice from a professional.

Solution: Instructors, divemasters and guides sometimes offer coaching to recreational divers to help make the diver’s experience safer and more enjoyable on future dives. Don’t be offended if offered advice. These people are trying to help you and your buddies have a better experience.

Ignoring the rules (part 1)

Training agencies set procedures and limits based on data from thousands of training dives, test dives and accident statistics gathered from across the planet. Depth limits, dive procedures and training recommendations filter down to form the ever-evolving training standards we all agree upon. For example, it requires additional training to safely dive beyond recreational limits, inside wrecks or in a drysuit.

The Dunning-Kruger diver will often flaunt training limits — even reveling in ignoring them as a badge of honor. They’ll often regard their survival as misguided validation that they have the skills required to repeat the feat. They may also take unsuitably qualified buddies beyond their training limits, putting others at risk as well.

Solution: Agencies carefully research the standards for each training level. These are backed up with valid statistical and educational information. If you seek more challenging dives, get the correct training first.

Ignoring the rules (Part 2)

Each diving environment is subtly different. The entries, exits, boat procedures, marine interaction and local etiquette can vary wildly from region to region. The procedures for diving a wreck are different to those for diving a reef. There are hundreds of variables. Local dive-industry professionals define their procedures within the briefings to minimize risks and ensure group safety in coordination with boat crews and local authorities.

The Dunning-Kruger diver dismisses the local procedures and instructions in the briefing. They may feel they already have the necessary knowledge or believe their method is superior. This can lead the diver to cause safety issues that would, otherwise, be easily avoided. Diving headaches such as the diver not entering/exiting the water correctly, signaling as required, being swept away in a current or, alternatively, raising the alarm due to buddy separation, are usually due to the diver not paying attention to (or disregarding) procedures.

Solution: The procedures that are in place exist for valid reasons — to preserve the dive site and, importantly, diver safety. Listen to the dive briefing. If anything is unclear, ask for clarification.

The metacognition we call the Dunning-Kruger effect should cause us all to pause and consider our own actions. The effect may explain the occasionally frustrating overconfidence of some of your dive buddies. Realizing that we’re all still learning may help us seek out the best advice and training, improve as divers and be safer and more skillful in the water.

The post Training Fundamentals: The Dunning-Kruger Diver appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.



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Training Fundamentals: The Dunning-Kruger Diver

 

Often, dive accidents and incidents are due to the Dunning-Kruger effect: diver error caused by the dissonance between the diver's overconfidence in his own abilities and his actual abilities. What are common signs of a Dunning-Kruger diver, and how do you avoid becoming one?

Diving is a very safe sport, with quite a small number of serious injuries and fatalities.

However, according to a recent report by Divers Alert Network, a disproportionately large number of serious injuries and fatalities befell recreational divers on pleasure and sightseeing dives. In fact, 66 percent of fatalities in the 2016 report fall into this category. A considerably smaller proportion of incidents occur in training situations, when experts work within set training parameters. The overwhelming reason for diver accidents is diver error, as mentioned, and one of the key drivers may be the psychological phenomenon known as the Dunning-Kruger Effect.

The Psychology: Unskilled and unaware

Two Cornell University professors, David Dunning and Justin Kruger, first explained their findings in 1999. Their research indicated a cognitive bias in novices within widespread fields, from tennis to medicine, to chess. The bias presents in novices as a belief that they are much more competent than they really are. As Dunning put it, "If you're incompetent, you can't know you're incompetent…The skills you need to produce a right answer are exactly the skills you need to recognize what a right answer is."

These blind spots in cognition leave novices in any given field, including scuba diving, with difficulty recognizing their own shortcomings, and may lead to inflated self-assessments of skill and knowledge level.

Dunning-Kruger indicators in scuba diving

Scuba diving is a never-ending learning curve of evolving skills and new technology. Naturally, in those first few qualifying dives, there is much to learn. During the first 10 to 100 dives, there is often a rush of confidence in novice divers disproportionate to their competence. The curve of confidence and perceived competence (picture above) often peaks in that range. Then, after gaining some knowledge and after some self-reflection, the diver forms a more realistic assessment of their actual abilities and competence. The curve of the diver's confidence drops away as they begin Rescue, Divemaster or technical-diver training and realizes the length of the road ahead.

Subsequently, confidence and competence grow together as a diver gains new skills and experiences over the longer term. Although note that even experts lack the supreme confidence of those at the early "peak," as they have the wherewithal to understand that there is always more to learn.

Signs of a Dunning-Kruger diver

Divers in that initial 10 to 100 logged-dives range are often receptive to advice and open to learning new scuba skills, or receiving coaching. Those at the peak of the early confidence curve, however, often exhibit traits that can frustrate their buddies and dive center staff or, potentially, lead to hazardous behavior. Here are a few signs of a Dunning-Kruger diver: have you (or someone you know) ever exhibited any of these behaviors?

Ignoring equipment advice

Having the right equipment for your level of diving and environment is key. It would be unwise, for example, to take warm-water rated regulator into water. Local instructors, divemasters and dive center staff will often make recommendations based on your planned dives and experience level, whether that's having a reel and SMB, using nitrox, or the suitability of your BCD, regulator, exposure suit or hood.

The Dunning-Kruger diver will often spurn the advice of divers more experienced or qualified in that diving activity or environment. For example, they may insist on taking gloves, a pointer or a shaker — despite a ban in the marine park or advice not to use them from a local guide. Alternatively, the diver may insist that they don't need a hood or gloves in a tougher environment, finding themselves cold as the dive progresses to depth or exposing them to hazards on a wreck dive.

Solution: Listen to the advice of experienced local divers and staff. They know the waters, procedures and suitable equipment for the dives.

Ignoring training course advice

If you want to advance your diver training, who better to consult than your instructor? They know the training standards, curriculum, and requirements of the various training courses in detail. Especially if they've already completed some training with you, the instructor can give you honest and constructive feedback as to whether you're a suitable candidate.

The Dunning-Kruger diver will often be wholeheartedly convinced they're capable of being a divemaster, instructor or technical diver after their first training dives, despite knowing little of the training standards, curriculum, and responsibilities. Conversely, the diver may be offended if he receives delicate advice from an instructor that he should gain more experience before progressing. The Dunning-Kruger diver will often ignore this advice and push to sign up in the course with an alternate instructor.

Solution: While ambition and enthusiasm for further training are admirable qualities, take the advice you receive and learn to walk before you run if so advised. Taking your time can prevent needless risks to yourself and fellow divers in your group.

Spurning technique advice

Sometimes when supervising certified divers, instructors, divemasters and guides will offer advice and tips outside of the confines of a course. This can be on a liveaboard or during a guided boat or shore dive. It may be that, having observed the diver in the water, the professional offers advice on technique such as getting in/out of their equipment, buoyancy control, positioning, weighting, finning technique or even tips for diving motor skills such as deploying an SMB from depth more effectively.

The Dunning-Kruger diver will often rebuff, discard or discount advice from the professional diver. They may even, in some cases, attempt to rationalize their behavior or argue that they're correct and the professional is wrong. For example, a diver with volatile buoyancy may be convinced the equipment is at fault rather than accept advice from a professional.

Solution: Instructors, divemasters and guides sometimes offer coaching to recreational divers to help make the diver's experience safer and more enjoyable on future dives. Don't be offended if offered advice. These people are trying to help you and your buddies have a better experience.

Ignoring the rules (part 1)

Training agencies set procedures and limits based on data from thousands of training dives, test dives and accident statistics gathered from across the planet. Depth limits, dive procedures and training recommendations filter down to form the ever-evolving training standards we all agree upon. For example, it requires additional training to safely dive beyond recreational limits, inside wrecks or in a drysuit.

The Dunning-Kruger diver will often flaunt training limits — even reveling in ignoring them as a badge of honor. They'll often regard their survival as misguided validation that they have the skills required to repeat the feat. They may also take unsuitably qualified buddies beyond their training limits, putting others at risk as well.

Solution: Agencies carefully research the standards for each training level. These are backed up with valid statistical and educational information. If you seek more challenging dives, get the correct training first.

Ignoring the rules (Part 2)

Each diving environment is subtly different. The entries, exits, boat procedures, marine interaction and local etiquette can vary wildly from region to region. The procedures for diving a wreck are different to those for diving a reef. There are hundreds of variables. Local dive-industry professionals define their procedures within the briefings to minimize risks and ensure group safety in coordination with boat crews and local authorities.

The Dunning-Kruger diver dismisses the local procedures and instructions in the briefing. They may feel they already have the necessary knowledge or believe their method is superior. This can lead the diver to cause safety issues that would, otherwise, be easily avoided. Diving headaches such as the diver not entering/exiting the water correctly, signaling as required, being swept away in a current or, alternatively, raising the alarm due to buddy separation, are usually due to the diver not paying attention to (or disregarding) procedures.

Solution: The procedures that are in place exist for valid reasons — to preserve the dive site and, importantly, diver safety. Listen to the dive briefing. If anything is unclear, ask for clarification.

The metacognition we call the Dunning-Kruger effect should cause us all to pause and consider our own actions. The effect may explain the occasionally frustrating overconfidence of some of your dive buddies. Realizing that we're all still learning may help us seek out the best advice and training, improve as divers and be safer and more skillful in the water.

The post Training Fundamentals: The Dunning-Kruger Diver appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.



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5 of the best day hikes in New Zealand you can’t miss

It’s no secret – New Zealand is an outdoor enthusiasts paradise. With some of the most pristine nature, epic landscapes, and unique biodiversity in the world, it’s no surprise that hiking and getting outside it pretty much on everyone’s bucketlist here.

With trails ranging from mellow walks to intense multi-day missions that require expertise, there is something for everyone here. From rainforests to glaciated peaks to alpine deserts and volcanoes to coastal walkways, New Zealand literally has it all.

But with more than a third of the land looked after by the Department of Conservation with thousands of kilometers of incredible tracks of all varieties to choose from, choosing hikes can be daunting.

Along with DOC, and after five years of tramping (kiwi for hiking) here are five of the best day hikes in New Zealand, all unique and worth checking out on a trip to this corner of the world

1. Te Whara Track in Northland (Whangarei)

7.5 kilometers, one way. 5-6 hours. Intermediate walking track. More info here

At the top of the North Island is some of New Zealand’s greatest and most culturally significant Māori spots, and Northland has no shortage of beautiful coastal views to chose from, and it’s still a bit of a local secret and often very quiet.

One of the best has to be the the Te Whara track, which follows the track of Manaia, which is at least 700 years old, which is pretty old by kiwi standards. Passing through some of the finest coastal forest in New Zealand, after a steady climb to the ridge you’ll be greeted with amazing views of the coast.

Keep an eye out for the North Island robin and whitehead, and make sure to stick to the marked trails out of respect for the local iwi (Māori tribe) and their ancestors.

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

2. Hooker Valley Track in Canterbury (Mt. Cook Village)

10 kilometer return, 3 hours. Easy walking track, more info here

No argument, the Hooker Valley walk at Aoraki/Mt. Cook is one of the most scenic day hikes in New Zealand. And flat, well maintained, and pretty easy, it definitely offers the most bang for your buck in terms of stunning vistas on a relatively mellow hike.

The very well-trodden path is one of the most popular in New Zealand, and winds its way along the Hooker Valley towards Mt. Cook, New Zealand’s highest mountain. You can’t miss it. You’ll pass Mt. Sefton (one of my favorite mountains) with its stunning hanging glaciers, and you can often hear and see avalanches tumbling down year round. Bounce along three swing bridges that traverse the Hooker River before eventually popping out at the Hooker Lake, at the bottom of Mt. Cook.

In winter it freezes over and there are often icebergs floating around in its milky blue waters.

Keep an eye out for kea, the world’s only alpine parrot and who’s quite cheeky and for the Mt. Cook Buttercup, the world’s biggest buttercup.

day hikes new zealand

Looking up towards Mt. Sefton

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

3. Cape Kidnappers Walking Track in the Hawke’s Bay (Clifton)

19 kilometer return, 5 hours. Easy walking track. See the gannets between November and February. More info here

In addition to being home to so many natural wonders and fascinating birds, it probably shouldn’t come as a surprise that New Zealand also is home to the world’s largest gannet colony. A stunning coastal walk along a beach with incredible cliffs that show the formation of New Zealand will eventually lead you to the bird colony with great views of the Hawke’s Bay.

The walk is mostly along a beach and can only be attempted at low tide.

Keep an eye out for heron, tern, little blue penguins, and oystercatchers.

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

4. Tongariro Alpine Crossing (Central North Island)

19.4 kilometers one way, 7-8 hours. Easy/intermediate track. More info here

Often lauded as New Zealand’s greatest day walk, the Tongariro Crossing has been famous for as long as I can remember. In fact, it’s become so popular you can no longer park at the two main carparks at the start and finish of the track for the crossing, instead needing to book a shuttle.

New Zealand’s first national park, this massive day trip crosses near three of the most iconic volcanoes on the North Island – Tongariro, Ruapehu, and Ngauruhoe – which you might recognize as Mt. Doom in the Lord of the Rings. You’ll pass along bubbling neon lakes, see steam rising from the volcanoes in the distance and even go through ancient forests. This tramp has it all.

Make no mistake, this is an alpine crossing reaching almost 2000 meters at the top and you need to be prepared for it.

Keep an eye out for many of New Zealand’s iconic birds, like tui, bellbirds, tomtits, and fantails.

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

5. Roy’s Peak in Otago (Wanaka)

16 kilometers, 5-6 hours return. Easy walking track. More info here

Thanks to Instagram, Roy’s Peak has quickly become one of the most popular day hikes in New Zealand, and with good reason – it’s stunning. Be warned, you won’t have this track to yourself, and it can get really busy, especially in summer.

A relatively straightforward and easy track – it’s almost like a four wheel drive road – it’s also long and unrelentingly steep so you need to be relatively fit to do it. You’ll climb up and up on switchbacks through meadows and farmland dotted with sheep before you’ll eventually be rewarded with incredible views of Wanaka, Mt. Aspiring and the mighty Southern Alps.

There are various iconic viewpoints near the top, and the views get better and better the higher you climb. Bring plenty of water as there is none on the track and there is no shade making it incredibly hot in summer. The track is closed around October 1 to November 10th every year for lambing.

day hikes new zealand

Often there are long queues to take this classic photo

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

Many thanks to DOC for looking after our beautiful land here in New Zealand and keeping these trails up to snuff for us to continue to enjoy them. Like always I’m keeping it real – all opinions are my own – like you could expect less from me!

The post 5 of the best day hikes in New Zealand you can’t miss appeared first on Young Adventuress.



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Friday, December 29, 2017

5 of the best day hikes in New Zealand you can’t miss

It's no secret – New Zealand is an outdoor enthusiasts paradise. With some of the most pristine nature, epic landscapes, and unique biodiversity in the world, it's no surprise that hiking and getting outside it pretty much on everyone's bucketlist here.

With trails ranging from mellow walks to intense multi-day missions that require expertise, there is something for everyone here. From rainforests to glaciated peaks to alpine deserts and volcanoes to coastal walkways, New Zealand literally has it all.

But with more than a third of the land looked after by the Department of Conservation with thousands of kilometers of incredible tracks of all varieties to choose from, choosing hikes can be daunting.

Along with DOC, and after five years of tramping (kiwi for hiking) here are five of the best day hikes in New Zealand, all unique and worth checking out on a trip to this corner of the world

1. Te Whara Track in Northland (Whangarei)

7.5 kilometers, one way. 5-6 hours. Intermediate walking track. More info here

At the top of the North Island is some of New Zealand's greatest and most culturally significant Māori spots, and Northland has no shortage of beautiful coastal views to chose from, and it's still a bit of a local secret and often very quiet.

One of the best has to be the the Te Whara track, which follows the track of Manaia, which is at least 700 years old, which is pretty old by kiwi standards. Passing through some of the finest coastal forest in New Zealand, after a steady climb to the ridge you'll be greeted with amazing views of the coast.

Keep an eye out for the North Island robin and whitehead, and make sure to stick to the marked trails out of respect for the local iwi (Māori tribe) and their ancestors.

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

2. Hooker Valley Track in Canterbury (Mt. Cook Village)

10 kilometer return, 3 hours. Easy walking track, more info here

No argument, the Hooker Valley walk at Aoraki/Mt. Cook is one of the most scenic day hikes in New Zealand. And flat, well maintained, and pretty easy, it definitely offers the most bang for your buck in terms of stunning vistas on a relatively mellow hike.

The very well-trodden path is one of the most popular in New Zealand, and winds its way along the Hooker Valley towards Mt. Cook, New Zealand's highest mountain. You can't miss it. You'll pass Mt. Sefton (one of my favorite mountains) with its stunning hanging glaciers, and you can often hear and see avalanches tumbling down year round. Bounce along three swing bridges that traverse the Hooker River before eventually popping out at the Hooker Lake, at the bottom of Mt. Cook.

In winter it freezes over and there are often icebergs floating around in its milky blue waters.

Keep an eye out for kea, the world's only alpine parrot and who's quite cheeky and for the Mt. Cook Buttercup, the world's biggest buttercup.

day hikes new zealand

Looking up towards Mt. Sefton

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

3. Cape Kidnappers Walking Track in the Hawke's Bay (Clifton)

19 kilometer return, 5 hours. Easy walking track. See the gannets between November and February. More info here

In addition to being home to so many natural wonders and fascinating birds, it probably shouldn't come as a surprise that New Zealand also is home to the world's largest gannet colony. A stunning coastal walk along a beach with incredible cliffs that show the formation of New Zealand will eventually lead you to the bird colony with great views of the Hawke's Bay.

The walk is mostly along a beach and can only be attempted at low tide.

Keep an eye out for heron, tern, little blue penguins, and oystercatchers.

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

4. Tongariro Alpine Crossing (Central North Island)

19.4 kilometers one way, 7-8 hours. Easy/intermediate track. More info here

Often lauded as New Zealand's greatest day walk, the Tongariro Crossing has been famous for as long as I can remember. In fact, it's become so popular you can no longer park at the two main carparks at the start and finish of the track for the crossing, instead needing to book a shuttle.

New Zealand's first national park, this massive day trip crosses near three of the most iconic volcanoes on the North Island – Tongariro, Ruapehu, and Ngauruhoe – which you might recognize as Mt. Doom in the Lord of the Rings. You'll pass along bubbling neon lakes, see steam rising from the volcanoes in the distance and even go through ancient forests. This tramp has it all.

Make no mistake, this is an alpine crossing reaching almost 2000 meters at the top and you need to be prepared for it.

Keep an eye out for many of New Zealand's iconic birds, like tui, bellbirds, tomtits, and fantails.

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

5. Roy's Peak in Otago (Wanaka)

16 kilometers, 5-6 hours return. Easy walking track. More info here

Thanks to Instagram, Roy's Peak has quickly become one of the most popular day hikes in New Zealand, and with good reason – it's stunning. Be warned, you won't have this track to yourself, and it can get really busy, especially in summer.

A relatively straightforward and easy track – it's almost like a four wheel drive road – it's also long and unrelentingly steep so you need to be relatively fit to do it. You'll climb up and up on switchbacks through meadows and farmland dotted with sheep before you'll eventually be rewarded with incredible views of Wanaka, Mt. Aspiring and the mighty Southern Alps.

There are various iconic viewpoints near the top, and the views get better and better the higher you climb. Bring plenty of water as there is none on the track and there is no shade making it incredibly hot in summer. The track is closed around October 1 to November 10th every year for lambing.

day hikes new zealand

Often there are long queues to take this classic photo

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

day hikes new zealand

Many thanks to DOC for looking after our beautiful land here in New Zealand and keeping these trails up to snuff for us to continue to enjoy them. Like always I'm keeping it real – all opinions are my own – like you could expect less from me!

The post 5 of the best day hikes in New Zealand you can't miss appeared first on Young Adventuress.



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Macro Photography in Utila Part II:  How to Get the Shot

In our last article on macro photography in Utila, we introduced you to Brad Ryon, a realtor and underwater photographer on Utila, one of the Bay Islands in Honduras. The island is a paradise for macro photographers, and you needn't be a professional photographer to take advantage of the opportunities in the island's waters. Here, we'll focus on tips and tricks that Ryon has picked up along the way, and also offer some relatively affordable equipment suggestions.

Buying the right equipment

Many divers want to take better pictures underwater, but macro often seems out of reach, especially to amateurs who may eye the giant camera rigs they see on the boat with unease. Although big DSLR rigs are undoubtedly spectacular at the job, you can capture good macro images as well with a far smaller, more affordable set up.

Ryon used DSLRs above-water, but he found an underwater rig — with multiple lenses and strobes — too bulky and costly for not much difference in result with macro shots When looking for your first underwater camera for macro photography, Ryon recommends something with a built-in flash, a microscope mode and an underwater housing. Both the Olympus TG-5and the Canon G series are good options. Some of the G-series cameras have a focus range of 1 cm/half inch and, by adding diopters or magnification lenses to the underwater housing, you can capture extremely small creatures or amazing close-up details. There are several strobes that work well for macro photography, but you can also get good results with a video light or even a torch if you don't have the budget for a separate strobe.  

Framing is critical, especially if there is not much color in your shot. This photo lacks color, but by using framing and the surrounding textures you don't need it. It took over 20 minutes to get within a few inches for this shot of a large stingray under the — worth the crawl. Shot with: Olympus E-M5 F5 1/250 ISO 100 60mm macro lens Using magnification lenses helps bring the details of your subject out and create some interesting effects. By using one here, I made a very small fish fill more than 50 percent of the photograph and illustrated details that you can't see with your own eyes. Shot with: Canon Powershot G15 F8 1/2000 ISO 80 30mm +10 Diopter Sneaky and slow sometimes is the only way to get the shot you want. If you take your time, you can often get right next to your subject to get those hard shots. Some of my favorite photos are extreme close-ups of just one part of a creature, such as this eye of a peacock flounder. Shot with: Canon Powershot G15 F8 1/2000 ISO 80 30mm Some shots may take an entire dive or even several dives to capture. Don't be afraid to spend extra time if you find a great subject in the perfect location. By getting at the same level or even below your subject, you can capture the full details of your subject; I had to shoot from multiple angles over several dives to get this photo. Shot with: Canon Powershot G12 F8 1/2000 ISO 80 16mm Colors, textures and patterns can make a photo. Macro shots can give you the ability to see colors, textures and patterns not easily seen otherwise, and the animal's eyes are a great place to look for these three elements. Shot with: Olympus E-M5 F20 1/18 ISO 160 41mm

Before your first shot

Once you've chosen your rig, Ryon has a few tips before you even begin shooting.

Practice good buoyancy

Avoiding contact with the reef and reef creatures demands good diving skills and good buoyancy. Both are a must before you attempt to take macro photos. You must be able to take your time and visit small, controlled areas. Whenever you enter the water, marine life disperses, so you must hover quietly and let the reef creatures return to more normal behavior. Additionally, you must go very slow unless you're looking for something specific. The key is to stay as still as possible, control your breathing and move very slowly.

When it comes to your camera, start small

Ryon's first camera was a high-end point-and-shoot with an underwater housing and no lights or strobes. It had a built-in +3 macro setting, but that was it. He learned that he did not need a big rig to photograph the reef if he got closer and used natural light.   Your first camera doesn't need to be complicated, and you can even start with the standard macro setting on most cameras (the flower button). Once you have improved your skills, purchase a camera with either a microscope mode or a housing that allows you to add a diopter or magnification lens. There will be a lot to learn once you upgrade, and the time to learn how to work your rig is not on the dive with living creatures.

Practice in a pool or topside

Practice in a pool with sinkable toys or other objects before trying to photograph on the reef. When diving, look for stuff in sand or gravel, as it is much safer for beginners to photograph there first. Macro opportunities depend on what you're looking for related to reef or sand, but you must be deep enough to be out of surge. You must stay aware of everything around you on a reef, so wait until you are very experienced and have excellent buoyancy before trying to photograph close to the reef. You can also practice lighting techniques in the pool with sinkable toys. You want to get as close as possible to a subject underwater to eliminate sedimentation, but lighting can become a problem when you're so close. If you're using the built-in flash, it will cast a shadow from the housing. You won't know at what distance this happens without practicing.

If you can change the lenses on your camera, macro-specific lenses can really help get high quality images with great detail. Catching creatures displaying behaviors like this can be unusual, so take advantage and spend the time if you see it. Shot with: Olympus E-M5 F20 1/60 ISO 200 60mm macro lens Getting up close and shooting at high speed while facing your camera into open water can give the appearance of shooting in the dark even though it is a bright sunny day. I used the reflective nature of the squid's eyes and parts of the body to make look like it was emitting its own light. Shot with: Canon Powershot G15 F5.6 1/2000 ISO 80 12mm Framing is critical, especially if there is not much color in your shot. This photo lacks color, but by using framing and the surrounding textures you don't need it. It took over 20 minutes to get within a few inches for this shot of a large stingray under the — worth the crawl. Shot with: Olympus E-M5 F5 1/250 ISO 100 60mm macro lens Reducing the distance between you and your subject reduces the chances of getting unwanted

Know the habitat and what you'll find there

Ryon says it is less about the equipment and more about doing your research and taking time to get the shot. He recommends that new photographers invest in a book called "The Underwater Photographer," by Martin Edge. It's also helpful to study the reef books written by Ned DeLoach or others to help narrow down what you are looking for and where to look.  

Doing your homework will help prepare you for what you will find, and help you learn where to look for something specific. You can also practice setting up your camera to get the shot. Time of day and conditions are usually not as much of an issue with macro photography as they are with other types of underwater photography, unless you're looking for nighttime creatures. You can shoot macro in almost any environment, other than strong surge or rough seas, because there is very little water between you and the subject to affect clarity if the water is murky. 

Take your time

Once you've done your research, slow down. Take your time on the dive. Ryon says he used to swim right over critters, but now he knows where to look and what to look for. Fin slowly (if at all), and examine the areas you're diving over. Look closely at soft corals for stuff crawling around. Over time you will learn where to look — if you know what you're looking for and where it should be, you can often find it. 

Final tips for macro photography

Once you've dialed in your buoyancy and know what you're looking for, it's time to start honing your photography skills. Here are a few of Ryon's top tips.

  • Start with affordable set-up because the more expensive ones won't necessarily make you successful. Allow your skills to outgrow the camera before you move up. 
  • Always shoot on the manual setting and at the fastest shutter speed possible, unless you're trying to achieve a specific effect. A camera flash typically will typically sync around 1/250th of a second, but Ryon uses a camera with a flash sync at 1/4000th of a second. This helps capture quick action and produces sharp images, because the action will blur if the shutter speed is too slow.
  • Camera angle is important. Try not to photograph from above your subject. Either get straight on or underneath to make a shot more interesting and to achieve better characteristics and color. This is where good buoyancy comes in.
  • You may not be able to make out a creature until you look at the picture later. Ryon has taken pictures of what looks like a speck of dirt, but often finds out it was a creature.

Focus on dive skills before photography, but once you are a seasoned diver, macro photography can be an exciting addition to your dives. Find a set-up that is within your skill level and budget and get to know it well, and practice with it before you go diving.  Finally, slow down and take the time to look for stuff. Macro photography will be within your reach in no time.

 

The post Macro Photography in Utila Part II:  How to Get the Shot appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.



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Macro Photography in Utila Part II:  How to Get the Shot

In our last article on macro photography in Utila, we introduced you to Brad Ryon, a realtor and underwater photographer on Utila, one of the Bay Islands in Honduras. The island is a paradise for macro photographers, and you needn’t be a professional photographer to take advantage of the opportunities in the island’s waters. Here, we’ll focus on tips and tricks that Ryon has picked up along the way, and also offer some relatively affordable equipment suggestions.

Buying the right equipment

Many divers want to take better pictures underwater, but macro often seems out of reach, especially to amateurs who may eye the giant camera rigs they see on the boat with unease. Although big DSLR rigs are undoubtedly spectacular at the job, you can capture good macro images as well with a far smaller, more affordable set up.

Ryon used DSLRs above-water, but he found an underwater rig — with multiple lenses and strobes — too bulky and costly for not much difference in result with macro shots When looking for your first underwater camera for macro photography, Ryon recommends something with a built-in flash, a microscope mode and an underwater housing. Both the Olympus TG-5and the Canon G series are good options. Some of the G-series cameras have a focus range of 1 cm/half inch and, by adding diopters or magnification lenses to the underwater housing, you can capture extremely small creatures or amazing close-up details. There are several strobes that work well for macro photography, but you can also get good results with a video light or even a torch if you don’t have the budget for a separate strobe.  

Framing is critical, especially if there is not much color in your shot. This photo lacks color, but by using framing and the surrounding textures you don’t need it. It took over 20 minutes to get within a few inches for this shot of a large stingray under the — worth the crawl. Shot with: Olympus E-M5 F5 1/250 ISO 100 60mm macro lens Using magnification lenses helps bring the details of your subject out and create some interesting effects. By using one here, I made a very small fish fill more than 50 percent of the photograph and illustrated details that you can’t see with your own eyes. Shot with: Canon Powershot G15 F8 1/2000 ISO 80 30mm +10 Diopter Sneaky and slow sometimes is the only way to get the shot you want. If you take your time, you can often get right next to your subject to get those hard shots. Some of my favorite photos are extreme close-ups of just one part of a creature, such as this eye of a peacock flounder. Shot with: Canon Powershot G15 F8 1/2000 ISO 80 30mm Some shots may take an entire dive or even several dives to capture. Don’t be afraid to spend extra time if you find a great subject in the perfect location. By getting at the same level or even below your subject, you can capture the full details of your subject; I had to shoot from multiple angles over several dives to get this photo. Shot with: Canon Powershot G12 F8 1/2000 ISO 80 16mm Colors, textures and patterns can make a photo. Macro shots can give you the ability to see colors, textures and patterns not easily seen otherwise, and the animal’s eyes are a great place to look for these three elements. Shot with: Olympus E-M5 F20 1/18 ISO 160 41mm

Before your first shot

Once you’ve chosen your rig, Ryon has a few tips before you even begin shooting.

Practice good buoyancy

Avoiding contact with the reef and reef creatures demands good diving skills and good buoyancy. Both are a must before you attempt to take macro photos. You must be able to take your time and visit small, controlled areas. Whenever you enter the water, marine life disperses, so you must hover quietly and let the reef creatures return to more normal behavior. Additionally, you must go very slow unless you’re looking for something specific. The key is to stay as still as possible, control your breathing and move very slowly.

When it comes to your camera, start small

Ryon’s first camera was a high-end point-and-shoot with an underwater housing and no lights or strobes. It had a built-in +3 macro setting, but that was it. He learned that he did not need a big rig to photograph the reef if he got closer and used natural light.   Your first camera doesn’t need to be complicated, and you can even start with the standard macro setting on most cameras (the flower button). Once you have improved your skills, purchase a camera with either a microscope mode or a housing that allows you to add a diopter or magnification lens. There will be a lot to learn once you upgrade, and the time to learn how to work your rig is not on the dive with living creatures.

Practice in a pool or topside

Practice in a pool with sinkable toys or other objects before trying to photograph on the reef. When diving, look for stuff in sand or gravel, as it is much safer for beginners to photograph there first. Macro opportunities depend on what you’re looking for related to reef or sand, but you must be deep enough to be out of surge. You must stay aware of everything around you on a reef, so wait until you are very experienced and have excellent buoyancy before trying to photograph close to the reef. You can also practice lighting techniques in the pool with sinkable toys. You want to get as close as possible to a subject underwater to eliminate sedimentation, but lighting can become a problem when you’re so close. If you’re using the built-in flash, it will cast a shadow from the housing. You won’t know at what distance this happens without practicing.

If you can change the lenses on your camera, macro-specific lenses can really help get high quality images with great detail. Catching creatures displaying behaviors like this can be unusual, so take advantage and spend the time if you see it. Shot with: Olympus E-M5 F20 1/60 ISO 200 60mm macro lens Getting up close and shooting at high speed while facing your camera into open water can give the appearance of shooting in the dark even though it is a bright sunny day. I used the reflective nature of the squid’s eyes and parts of the body to make look like it was emitting its own light. Shot with: Canon Powershot G15 F5.6 1/2000 ISO 80 12mm Framing is critical, especially if there is not much color in your shot. This photo lacks color, but by using framing and the surrounding textures you don’t need it. It took over 20 minutes to get within a few inches for this shot of a large stingray under the — worth the crawl. Shot with: Olympus E-M5 F5 1/250 ISO 100 60mm macro lens Reducing the distance between you and your subject reduces the chances of getting unwanted “floaters” in the water. By positioning my camera to point away from other objects in the background, it brings out the details of the subject. Shot with: Canon Powershot G12 F8 1/2000 ISO 80 12mm

Know the habitat and what you’ll find there

Ryon says it is less about the equipment and more about doing your research and taking time to get the shot. He recommends that new photographers invest in a book called “The Underwater Photographer,” by Martin Edge. It’s also helpful to study the reef books written by Ned DeLoach or others to help narrow down what you are looking for and where to look.  

Doing your homework will help prepare you for what you will find, and help you learn where to look for something specific. You can also practice setting up your camera to get the shot. Time of day and conditions are usually not as much of an issue with macro photography as they are with other types of underwater photography, unless you’re looking for nighttime creatures. You can shoot macro in almost any environment, other than strong surge or rough seas, because there is very little water between you and the subject to affect clarity if the water is murky. 

Take your time

Once you’ve done your research, slow down. Take your time on the dive. Ryon says he used to swim right over critters, but now he knows where to look and what to look for. Fin slowly (if at all), and examine the areas you’re diving over. Look closely at soft corals for stuff crawling around. Over time you will learn where to look — if you know what you’re looking for and where it should be, you can often find it. 

Final tips for macro photography

Once you’ve dialed in your buoyancy and know what you’re looking for, it’s time to start honing your photography skills. Here are a few of Ryon’s top tips.

  • Start with affordable set-up because the more expensive ones won’t necessarily make you successful. Allow your skills to outgrow the camera before you move up. 
  • Always shoot on the manual setting and at the fastest shutter speed possible, unless you’re trying to achieve a specific effect. A camera flash typically will typically sync around 1/250th of a second, but Ryon uses a camera with a flash sync at 1/4000th of a second. This helps capture quick action and produces sharp images, because the action will blur if the shutter speed is too slow.
  • Camera angle is important. Try not to photograph from above your subject. Either get straight on or underneath to make a shot more interesting and to achieve better characteristics and color. This is where good buoyancy comes in.
  • You may not be able to make out a creature until you look at the picture later. Ryon has taken pictures of what looks like a speck of dirt, but often finds out it was a creature.

Focus on dive skills before photography, but once you are a seasoned diver, macro photography can be an exciting addition to your dives. Find a set-up that is within your skill level and budget and get to know it well, and practice with it before you go diving.  Finally, slow down and take the time to look for stuff. Macro photography will be within your reach in no time.

 

The post Macro Photography in Utila Part II:  How to Get the Shot appeared first on Scuba Diver Life.



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