The nine volcanic islands of the Azores puncture the vast North Atlantic Ocean 850 miles west of mainland Portugal. Among these tiny green isles is a hidden gem: Flores, the westernmost of the archipelago, and the perfect spot for a short outdoor getaway.
Although they feel a world away from anywhere else, the Azores are surprisingly easy to reach. I landed on Terceira after a mere 4-hour direct flight from Boston on SATA. From there it was a one-hour hop over to Flores, the westernmost of not only the Azores, but of Europe itself, as the archipelago is an autonomous region under Portuguese governance. All told, it was about 12 hours door-to-door from my home base of Detroit, Michigan, to Santa Cruz on Flores, which with its population of just under 2,000 inhabitants, is the largest town on this 55-square-mile island, home to under 10,000 people total.
Arrival on Flores
Once we land on Flores, our guide for the week and owner of Flores Dive Center, Miguel Jeronimo, picks us up at the airport. The dive shop, which Miguel runs out of his garage, and our guesthouse, also managed by the dive shop, are both in the tiny seaside town of Faja Grande.
The lush island looks like a cross between Hawaii, Ireland and Middle Earth as we wind up the hills of the narrow main road. We pass black volcanic cliffs, coursing with waterfalls. A patchwork of terraced farm fields hugs the coast, each postage-stamp shaped square separated from the one next to it by a low stone wall buried in blooming blue and purple hydrangeas. We descend into Faja Grande, which hugs the west coast of the island — although there’s nothing “grande” about it. A collection of whitewashed buildings with red tile roofs spills down to the seafront on the cobblestoned main road. There’s a church, a snack bar, waterfront restaurant, small grocery store, and not much else. The dramatic coastline is studded with ironshore, and just off shore is the wreck of the Papadiamandis. We’ve come to experience all the outdoor pursuits Flores has to offer, and we start out with the pastime that draws the most visitors: hiking.
Hiking on Flores
Most visitors come to Flores for the fantastic hiking, and rightly so. The tiny island boasts four official trails as well as the Grande Rota das Flores, a two-part, 29-mile (47 k) hike that encircles two-thirds of the island. Hikes range in length and difficulty from easy to multi-day challenges, and from relatively flat shoreline walks to steep ascents and descents. Hikers will see pastures and forests, calderas and seashore, lighthouses and small villages. Although it didn’t necessarily qualify as a hike, shortly after arrival we took a 30-minute trek up a stone path and through a verdant forest near Faja Grande, back to the waterfalls of Poço da Alagoinha, streaming down the sheer, vegetation-covered rocks into a pool below. It was a scene straight out of “Jurassic Park,” and I couldn’t have been more impressed had a pterodactyl actually soared over the top of cliff and alit in the pond below.
Canyoning on Flores
If you haven’t any idea what canyoning is, you’re not alone. Until we arrived at West Canyon Turismo Aventura, I too had no idea what we were in for. Canyoning participants gear up in wetsuits, helmets and a rock-climbing harness and then descend a sloped water course, walking through and along rivers and streams. As the waterways descend over cliffs or along boulders, canyoners abseil with ropes, jump, climb down or slide along natural stone waterslides. If it sounds like a challenge, it was — but in the best way.
Along with the rest of our tour group, who hailed from points as close as Belgium and as far as Colombia, we spent around three hours in the water. We traversed waterfalls and streams, climbed rocks and leapt into chilly, crystal-clear pools. As a finale, we zip-lined/rappelled off the highest waterfall of the course, flying down the rope from the top of the falls at 60 feet (18 m) into the water below. Depending on your level of experience — and need for an adrenaline rush — West Canyon offers three different levels of canyoning tours, from one for beginners (our choice) to those who wish to climb down 720-foot waterfalls and rappel 197 feet (60 m).
Diving on Flores
When it was time to splash in for a dive, my buddy and I, along with Miguel and his assistant Bruno, boarded one of Miguel’s boats, the Tomaine I, II, or III, each suited to different-sized groups. We did shore dives and boat dives, even venturing over to neighboring island Corvo to dive the marine reserve and tour the island’s caldera. The highlight came on our last day of diving, as we motored for around 45 minutes up the east coast of the island out of Santa Cruz to a site called Ilhéu do Garajau, which means “island of the terns.”
We splashed into the 66 F (19 C) water near the small rock and descended to about 70 feet (21 m) where a recalcitrant hogfish peeped out from among the boulders. We rode the surge near the island’s sheer wall, playing with a school of gray triggerfish in the sunlight’s beams. Lots of small baitfish flittered about, and a shy moray eel popped his head out of a crevice for a photo op. Further searching of the crevices revealed a scorpionfish as well. After pushing away from the wall for our safety stop, we surfaced satisfied that we’d seen all the best that nature had to offer on Flores.
How to Get There
Getting to the Azores from North America couldn’t be easier. SATA airlines offers direct flights from Boston to TK, TK and TK. You can fly from Toronto to TK year-round and from Montreal in July and August. There are also plentiful flights from Lisbon to the Azores each day.
Where to Stay
We stayed in a comfortable guesthouse, complete with a living room, three bedrooms and a full kitchen on Faja Grande’s main road, close to both the dive shop and hiking opportunities. For other guesthouse options, check here or here.
Where to Eat
One of our favorite restaurants on the island was Por do Sol, in Lajes das Flores. Set in a converted stone cottage, it’s a great spot for sunset and traditional Portuguese food. If you’re diving, you’ll leave from Santa Cruz on one of Miguel’s boats — just above the harbor is a great spot for lunch, Trancador, which serves sandwiches and soups, as well as killer desserts, all with a nice view of the water. Over in Faja Grande, the charming Casa da Vigia, set into a whitewashed cottage, features lots of international dishes like spaghetti Pomodoro and pad Thai, all vegetarian.
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